TOP 100 Restaurants

Invigorating Nordic air meets sultry Gulf Coast breeze at this seafood spot in the Post Market food hall. Partners Christopher Haatuft (a Norwegian star chef) and Post impresario Paul Qui blend two regional attitudes with impeccable — and sustainable — sourcing. There’s nothing like it anywhere.

Food-hall dining goes casually upscale in this crisp, sit-down room. Fish and shellfish from warm and cold waters glint on heaps of ice. Chef de cuisine Alberto Cruz, once head sushi guy for Uchi, mixes the influences at play in riveting ceviches, crudos and cold plates. The cooking can be spectacular, whether in the form of meticulous pan-roasted Gulf fish; whole grilled Maine squid that seems impossibly smooth, supple, and flavor-packed; or the freshest local vegetables, gently treated. The service is as smart as the wine list.

What to order : The menu changes with the tides, but look for pristine half-shell oyster or clam service; pan-roasted barrelfish or kingfish with hoja santa puree and chopped oysters; or red drum crudo with cooling buttermilk and dill vinaigrette, apple and celery.

Tip : Haatuft’s periodic visits feature dazzling multicourse menus worth booking ahead; and frequent chef takeovers can wow.

This tasting-menu restaurant aims for a Michelin-star level and hits the mark with exciting frequency. Chef Felipe Riccio’s menus shift through the entire Mediterranean basin — and its history — highlighting a new region every few months. His scholarship combines with carefully sourced ingredients (some from the restaurant’s own farm) to create a memorable experience, administered by what is arguably the city’s best service team. That they’ve achieved this during the pandemic makes it even more impressive.

The kitchen’s recent plunge into the Southern French region once known as Occitania yielded a lilting spring pea soup sharpened with rosé vinegar and smoked trout roe; brandade of whipped salt cod etched with capers and Bearnaise; and pork Provençale deepened by black garlic, hazelnut vinaigrette and a green, herbal pistou. Master Sommelier June Rodil’s wine pairings add verve, and Shawn Gawle’s disciplined desserts write the finish.

What to order : Each regional menu comprises either six courses ($175) or nine courses ($225) that may shift subtly with the season. The price includes pristine snacks and a house-made aperitif in the svelte, separate lounge area, where imaginative cocktails come a la carte.

Tip : Reservations are prepaid and ticketed, with a 48-hour cancellation limit.

This profoundly local bistro combines Asian, French and modernist technique in striking ways. Chef Justin Yu’s landmark Houston restaurant just keeps evolving, and a veteran front-of-the-house team runs it beautifully.

The short, relaxed a la carte menu is a far cry from the tasting menus that once ruled here; and the plates look more relaxed, too. But the assertive flavors in which Yu and chef de cuisine Kaitlin Steets trade are as pure and startling as ever. Vegetables remain forward, as in smoked and braised greens and beans in pot liquor, set off by a shivery-tart fan of pickled radicchio. Precise details make the dishes sing, like tiny cubes of grapefruit gelée that throw spring peas and flounder sashimi with seaweed strips into sharp focus.

What to order : The menu doesn’t change as often as it used to, so you may be able to catch such recent hits as tagliatelle with cultured butter, oyster liquor and tart mignonette; or warm strawberry buttercake with cold cardamom cream.

Tip : A service charge of 22% is added to all bills. Limited parking in the cramped Warehouse District makes ride services a smart move.

Chef-owner Anita Jaisinghani’s all-day Indian diner in River Oaks is in a constant state of interesting invention. You can feel the energy of the place, whether in the industrial-ish-but-breezily-colorful dining room or out on the festive pandemic-expanded patio. This is food that makes you feel good when, and after, you eat it. Even a dish like her spin on momos, the Nepalese dumplings, feels bouncy with farm-fresh ingredients and nuanced spicing. The classics — butter chicken, morning thali, saag, all manner of dosas — rock consistently, but there is magic to be found in the rotating specials. Think you won’t like pickle naan “pizza”? Don’t knock it.

Pondicheri also is one of the few top-tier restaurants to offer a wide swath of options for vegetarian and vegans. In fact, eating here on a Meatless Monday is recommended whether you eat meat or not; it’s packed for a reason.

What to order : Momos; Pondi Salad with lentils and jaggery lime dressing; pani poori; fish curry; dosas; jackfruit biryani (a Monday special)

Tip : During the day, venture upstairs to the Bake Lab for never-too-sickly-sweet pastries, massive cookies and a warm cup of milky chai.

The Israeli brain trust from Doris Metropolitan steakhouse opened this casual Rice Village spot in May — and just like that, Houston was home to one of the best contemporary Middle Eastern restaurants in America.

Tuffets of pita hot from the wood-burning oven escort salatim, vibrant dips and salads adapted from the repertoire of Palestine, North Africa and the Levant. Vegetable dishes dazzle, from crunchy falafel balls sparked with racy red cabbage slaw, to an absurdly lush whole eggplant, charred and skinned, set off by pops of pomegranate seeds and pine nuts. Chef Yotam Dolev is a wizard with meats and fish, too. The charry kebab plates are elemental and electric, and his whole branzino gets supernally crisp skin on the griddle before a subtle finish in the Josper charcoal oven. Set on a lemony fennel salad punctuated with sour cherries, it stops the show.

What to order : Baba ghanouj tinged with smoke; matbucha, a light, fresh cousin to ratatouille; whole Baladi eggplant; lamb-and-beef kebab with parsley salad; tenderloin skewer with sumac butter; grilled branzino; grilled pear dessert.

Tip : Extra pita are $2 each, and you’ll want some.

At this snug East End spot, Thai hip-hop animates a sweetly homey room at the end cap of a gas station. Chef Benchawan Painter’s inspired cooking ranges far beyond the standard American Thai repertoire. Her husband, Graham Painter, hosts and presides over a smart new wine and beer list that makes a meal here even more of an adventure.

Count on staples like the city’s best version of Drunken Noodles, wafting fragrant homegrown Thai basil. But be prepared for out-of-the-blue ideas like crunchy, chile-dusted fried crickets perched on watermelon cubes, elegant with a glass of Crémant. Weekends are for ambitious specials gleaned from farmers’ market and fishmonger: la tiang, a tumble of pork shrimp and peanuts in a lacy net of omelet; stuffed squid in cucumber broth; or dry-aged Wagyu grilled rare, Tiger-Cries style, with a raft of obstreperous garnishes.

What to order : Scratch-made curries in red or green; Chicken N’ Noodles with egg, greens, garlic and pickled chiles; scallion “pancakes” made with glutinous rice flour.

Tip : Be sure to book on weekends. Their Instagram tracks the specials.

Don’t think of MF Sushi as one restaurant. In the main dining room, patrons can book tables and order a la carte. At the sushi counter, guests can reserve for regular seatings or for omakase. It’s these latter tasting menus — offered four nights a week and limited to 10 seats — that catapult MF Sushi into the realm of America’s best sushi restaurants. Chris Kinjo presides like Houston’s very own Jiro Ono.

Performing culinary acrobatics with his hands for the better part of three hours, he gives a master class in knife skills, turning a humble carrot into matchstick-sized paper-thin slivers, or slicing an array of hamachi (yellowtail) using just one hand. His body rocks back and forth in a rhythmic motion as he forms each piece of nigiri sushi — Kinmedai, Norwegian salmon, Hamachi, Shima Aji — going on for 20-plus courses in a crescendo of lean to progressively luscious. As splurges go, it’s worth it.

What to order : A la carte: Mozuku, Japanese mushroom robata, marinated Japanese black cod, nikiri-brushed king salmon, chef’s choice nigiri, the Ancho cocktail. Or book an omakase.

Tip : The omakase with Chris Kinjo is offered Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, with an advance booking.

This spare, chic tasting-menu spot showcasing heirloom corn varieties shows how the pandemic — despite its travails — created a more dynamic dining scene. Here Mexico-City-born Emmanuel Chavez and partner Megan Maul leveraged pop-ups, Instagram and farmers-market sales into a finely tuned mom-and-pop, tucked in a Spring Branch storefront that doubles as their wholesale masa and tortilla business. Their reservation-only weekend dinners are capped by a walk-in Sunday brunch.

Votives flicker. Latin hip hop and trap fill the intimate room. And Chavez’s food is glorious, rooted in multicolored, gemlike corn kernels nixtamalized and stone-ground on site. Even the totopos flushed red with Conico Rosado corn are comal-toasted and air-dried, so that no oil gets in the way of the warm, round tones.

What to order : The $125 seven-course menus change with the market. But look for ideas like an ethereal squash-blossom quesadilla in a translucent Conico Azul shell; or expertly sous-vided short rib to wrap in blue-corn tortillas with charcoal-grilled spring onion, nopale strips and the fresh greens called quelites.

Tip : It’s BYOB, so bring a flask of your best Mezcal. Watch Instagram (@tatemo_htx) for Tuesday guest chef takeovers.

Cheek and charm are the calling cards at chef Nikki Tran’s inventive modern Vietnamese spot. Her highly personal menu deftly combines Vietnamese and Gulf Coastal Cajun ideas, and her sauces resonate.

Some restaurants lost a beat or two during the pandemic. Tran and company used the time to organize an exciting new cocktail and wine program under bartender/sommelier Chris Morris, so now the drinks live up to the food. Part of the appeal is encountering Tran’s latest inspirations, from a mini lobster banh mi with nuoc mam butter and house pate, to a cold mussel salad that’s a rollercoaster of tartness and heat shot through with a bloom of lemongrass. Look for racy sauces and unexpected fruit touches. And hold on for the ride.

What to order : Yellowtail crudo; Wagyu “Kaubaccio” with herbs and fish-sauce dip; grilled scallops in green onion oil; house-made dumplings; lobster banh mi; cold mussel salad; Saigon sunrise pork-chop plate with kimchi apples and fried egg; Flora the Explorer gin cocktail.

Tip : Check out the well-chosen and affordable wines by the glass or bottle.

Finding world-class cuisine in Houston’s outer suburbs has always been elusive. But you’ll find it at chef Austin Simmons’ paean to contemporary French, American and Asian cuisines, where the menu offers kaleidoscopic flavors and textures combined with one of the area’s best wine lists and craft cocktail menus.

Start with the brown butter Old Fashioned, adding a nutty component to the traditionally sweet and bitter bar favorite. Brown butter also appears in the signature starter of Korean butter-poached crab with a slightly sour kimchi sauce, all piled on a crispy kimchi pancake. Salmon is often an afterthought on restaurant menus, but not here: a not-too-sweet tom kha gai coconut sauce sets off the marbled slab of fish.

What to order : Lobster toast with yuzu aioli and smoked trout roe; Wagyu tostada with fermented cabbage; Korean butter-poached crab on kimchi pancake; salmon with Thai sauce; Gulf red snapper with lump crab; crab and truffle ravioli.

Tip : Take advantage of the attached parking garage (entrance behind the building on Fountains Plaza) which offers validated parking and an elevator that drops you right in front of the Tris entrance.

Austin’s loss is Houston’s gain now that chef Andy Chen has set up shop in this darkly handsome space, where he’s a nightly presence at the sushi counter. Chen excels at riveting nigiri and sashimi detail — right down to the springy texture of his rice, a blend of two types, one slightly sticky. But the quality of the menu’s cooked dishes sets Soto apart, too.

Witness a ravishing in-season special of Hokkaido red king crab, steamed for exactly 19 minutes and served with beurre blanc tinged with sweet Moscato. Even a stalwart like miso-grilled sea bass emerges with the crispest skin and most satiny flake. From the inventive omakase menus to the jewel-like bites of perfectly garnished fish and shellfish flown in from Tokyo, it’s hard to go wrong.

What to order : Nigiri of akami, a house-cured lean tuna; masa (ocean trout) with a dab of moromi miso, a fermented soy paste; and hamachi belly or kinmedai (golden-eye snapper) torched with charcoal. The $150 omakase meal is a worthwhile splurge.

Tip : Check out the happy hour bargains, like 5 pieces of chef’s choice nigiri for 20 bucks, or an absurdly flavorful $3 king mushroom nigiri.

Pitmaster Brett Jackson earned his barbecue bona fides at Central Texas-style standard-bearer Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor. Now he's brought his own refined version of that style to Katy, along with one of the most creative sausage-making programs in Houston. Currently operating in pop-up mode as it readies a bigger location in Katy (hopefully open by November), Brett’s is known for its Central Texas-style brisket – some of the best in the Houston area, if not the state.

The house-made sausage is a huge draw, and the classic all-beef link competes with the best of the old-school joints around Austin. Modern ideas include an all-pork tamale sausage (made with ground-up local tamales), in which the corn masa provides a unique flavor and texture; and a “cordon bleu” sausage made with chicken, Swiss cheese, and ham. A daily specials board might feature brisket enchiladas or habanero pork belly burnt ends.

What to order : Brisket, turkey and pork ribs; house-made sausages; brisket enchiladas; sandwiches (takes on classics made with Brett’s smoked meats); brisket macaroni and cheese.

Tip : Ask about the daily sausage specials and spring for a varied “sausage flight.”

Chef Chris Williams seems to have found order in the pandemic chaos, investing new enthusiasm into Lucille’s, his nod to the pioneering foods of his maternal great-grandmother, Lucille Bishop Smith. His menu of Southern classics feels fresh and vital nearly 10 years after he opened in the Museum District. Earlier this year Williams found himself in elite company as a finalist for Outstanding Restaurateur for the 2022 James Beard Awards.

That know-how is evident in soul-affirming gumbo z’herbes, chili biscuits, fried green tomatoes, and pork shank with three-bean ragu. The Gulf shrimp and grits with sherry tomato broth is superlative, as are Tex-Southern ideas like oxtail tamales with black-eyed peas pico. Brunch is a scene, complete with live music and tables ranging out into the garden.

What to order : Lucille’s chili biscuits; grilled octopus with green coconut curry; oxtail tamales; fried chicken with smoked mashed potatoes and collard greens; roasted Gulf fish with hoppin’ john.

Tip : Don’t miss the sweet potato waffle or oxtail omelet at brunch.

In her several appearances on this year’s “Top Chef Houston,” Kiran Verma came across as authoritative, unpretentious and utterly welcoming. Those words also describe Verma’s namesake fine-dining Indian restaurant that is one of Houston’s culinary treasures. The menu, like the dining room, is elegant and grand in scale. Start with chaat masala calamari, samosas and pakoras, before seguing into a dizzying array of tandoor-fired meats, biryani, Indian classics, naan and paratha. It’s complex, sumptuous stuff that can leave you breathless.

What to order : Delhi chaat; samosas and pakoras; tandoori salmon with kale pilaf; chicken tikka masala; tandoori lamb chops; and tandoori chicken alfredo “naanzza.” The saffron crème brulee is celestial.

Tip : Kiran’s festive afternoon tea service, Saturday and Sunday at 1 p.m., is one of few in Houston.

There’s a palpable buzz when you step inside this Upper Kirby sushi restaurant, remarkable because it’s been open for 13 years. But Manabu Horiuchi, Kata Robata’s executive chef, is not one to sit on his laurels. When he’s not doing high-profile chef collaborations, he’s entering local food competitions (often winning), pushing his restaurant forward with extraordinary consistency.

Kata’s core menu of sushi and sashimi never disappoints. You’d do well with anything off the daily specials menu, usually limited-quantity seasonal items that are here today, gone tomorrow. Summer saw items like Japanese muskmelon from the chef’s hometown, and Singaporean soft-shell chili crab. The chef’s brilliance shines brightest during his omakase dinners, customized multi-course feasts that always titillate with dishes you would never otherwise experience, like a stunning cold chawanmushi topped with uni, caviar and ikura; or 60-day dry-aged Texas beef with king crab and Texas peaches.

What to order : Daily specials; foie gras and scallop nigiri; chawanmushi hot Japanese egg custard; Texas Wagyu sando; Texas Kobe beef skewers; miso marinated black cod; spicy soy ramen; chef’s choice sashimi for two; strawberry miso cheesecake; chef’s omakase.

Tip : If you can’t get a reservation for a dinner omakase, try booking omakase for lunch.

Fine dining is alive and well at this svelte hideaway in the Museum of Fine Arts Houston’s new Kinder Building. From the breathtaking woodland wall tapestry to the plush sage upholstery to the Noguchi sculpture-garden views, it’s the kind of transporting room that’s rare in Houston.

The modern French menu may be conservative (there’s nothing on it to alarm a museum trustee), but it is executed with exquisite precision and bursts of concentrated flavor. Chef Alain Verzeroli, whose Miami iteration of Le Jardinier recently earned a Michelin star, produces gemlike seasonal offerings. Bored at the thought of another luxe lobster dish? Try it poached on Texas-ground grits with baby bok choy, in a lobster-coral bisque with the roe worked into a savory, netlike tuile. Attentive service adds value, as do pastry chef Salvatore Martone’s intricate desserts.

What to order : Look for ideas like citrus-cured Ora king salmon with melon cubelets and tiny coils of cucumber, set off by pops of caviar and droplets of herbal oil. Even a Wagyu bavette steak shines with a deep, compelling jus alongside bright vegetable and herbal accents.

Tip : Springing $165 for the 5-course seasonal tasting? Well-chosen wine pairings are well worth an extra $130.

This lively bistro has become a staple night-out restaurant for food lovers from all over the city, but very much has its own East Downtown terroir: hip staff, funky music, interesting and well-made cocktails, fermented flavors, small-batch wines you’ve never seen before.

Chef Jason Vaughan’s menu is tweaked often, though stellar standbys such the Nancy cakes with trout roe and cultured butter, or the spicy beef dumplings adorned with fresh dill and sauerkraut, keep trucking admirably. The pastas here almost always delight, whether that means ravioli stuffed with artichoke and spring onion or squid ink linguine. Seasonal salads show Vaughan’s deft touch. The cheeseburger, served on a brioche English muffin, is a lightning rod for debate; we like it. Pastry chef Kelly Helgesen makes some of the best desserts in town.

What to order : Spicy beef and butter dumplings; Nancy cakes; gem lettuce salad; whatever the pasta dish is on any given week; Parmesan cheesecake.

Tip : If you can’t get a last-minute reservation and there’s no room at the bar, walk a few blocks to sister restaurant Tiny Champions for righteous pizza.

Shiva and Rick Di Virgilio’s feisty blend of their respective Indian and Portuguese cuisines just keeps getting better. Da Gama’s pleasures aren’t reserved primarily for omnivores, either. Vegetarians and vegans have just as many entertaining options in this handsome, contemporary space.

It’s fritter heaven here, whether in the form of plush salt-cod-and-potato fofos or lacy yucca croquettes oozing molten pimento cheese. Seasonal chaats — those supercharged sweet-and-sour tumbles sparked by herbs, chiles, chutneys and yogurt — might employ bases of watermelon, roasted cauliflower or even dhokla, a semolina cake. Tandoori chicken tikka wows with a dry chutney of peanut, coconut and garlic. Interesting weekend specials might bring wood-grilled masala lamb chops with minted green-pea chutney. Add well-made cocktails and well-chosen wines from the talented Nicholas Nguyen, and you have lift-off.

What to order : Chutney assortment; bullet naan (or bullet yucca fries!) with an electric serrano garlic butter; vada pao, spicy potato-cake sliders on house-baked Portuguese sweet buns; Da Gama Little Gem salad, an inspired vegan “Caesar” with tahini cashew dressing, pickled cauliflower and puffed rice.

Tip : The subtropical patio, which has bounced back from two freezes, is particularly charming.

Leonard Botello IV opened his original barbecue joint in a small Brenham roadhouse serving classic Central Texas barbecue. He gained a loyal following of fans who now flock to this larger Washington Avenue location, a big-city extravaganza outfitted with four giant 1,000-gallon offset smokers and a full bar with wine, beer and cocktails.

Botello’s is one of the best Central Texas-style trinities of brisket, pork ribs and sausage this side of Austin. The plump, juicy sausages come in multiple versions including garlic and beef or jalapeno and cheddar. Watch for specials announcements, and jump on the Carolina-style whole hog when available (usually weekends). Side dishes venture beyond the excellent trio of coleslaw, pinto beans and potato salad to include a comforting tater tot casserole, corn pudding and roasted Brussels sprouts.

What to order : Texas trinity; brisket boudin and smoked sausages; Carolina whole hog; meat plates; dessert cakes.

Tip : Grab a colossal slice of one of the house-made layer cakes available at the checkout counter, including flavors such as red velvet, triple chocolate, and strawberry cream, all made from family recipes.

You can get your groove on, quite literally, at this Montrose restaurant that hums to its own soundtrack of more than 2,500 vinyl records in its collection. There are other charms at this wee, funky bungalow. Chef Martin Stayer and sommelier Sara Stayer have created an environment that neatly brings together laid-back hipness, creative cuisine (American shot through with Italian, Asian and Middle Eastern vibes), and a fabulous wine list.

Nobie’s pasta Bolognese may have brought it initial acclaim, but there are many other bangers on the daily-changing menu that keep fans coming back for more. It’s not a knock to say the restaurant doesn’t feel like you’re in Houston. But you are — and that’s a credit to Nobie’s quirky inventiveness and recognition of the global Houston palate.

What to order : Pull-apart milk bread; fried chicken skins doused with hot honey; curry gnocchi with pistachio mint pesto; halibut on baba ganoush with tomatoes and peppers; hanger steak with green papaya salad and shrimp vinaigrette; tagliatelle Bolognese.

Tip : The patio is a sweet spot to sit for those worried about the enclosed, house-like environs.

This crisp all-day cafe and bakery in the East End comes from brother/sister team Angelo and Lucianna Emiliani. He’s the savory chef known for his stellar pizza pop-ups; she bakes the breads and pastries. They trained with some of America’s best at Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix and the late, great Bar Tartine in San Francisco.

It shows: in the airy, well-browned croissants that rule mornings here, along with inventive coffee drinks and breakfasts. In the thoughtful sandwiches and salads of midday, where anything from a mortadella sub to a grilled cheese can bring joy. Dinner service adds terrific handmade pastas, vegetable dishes and entrees brimming with deep, dizzying flavors coaxed from carefully sourced local ingredients. The vibe’s casual, the hospitality’s warm, the wines unexpected, the prices reasonable. Sky’s the limit.

What to order : Look for such hits as charred okra; brick chicken with schmaltzy croutons in its bread salad; green cavatelli in wild boar ragu; or eggy tajarin with a profound mushroom sauce. Don’t miss the wild Paris Brest with banana mousseline and pecan praline.

Tip : A walk-up window is made for morning coffee-and-hand-pie runs or noonday sandwich grabs.

In a city full of cookie-cutter Italian menus, Lynette Hawkins’ warm trattoria has gone its own way for 13 years and counting. The remarkably steady cooking seems to have been issued from the kitchen of a brilliant friend. A humane menu format offers Venetian-style little dishes and vegetable options to graze upon, plus user-friendly half portions. Inspired specials keep things fresh, from multi-dimensional vichyssoise to a buttery Breton tart hiding rum-soaked apricots.

The personal, largely Italian wine list runs long on by-the-glass options and sparkling wines that fizz in wide, delicate coupe glasses — another Hawkins touch. The whole, hospitable package keeps regulars coming back. Well, that and sudden cravings for the soulful, house-made tagliatelle in a Bolognese made with pastured beef and pork. Or ravioli stuffed with Swiss chard, ricotta and goat cheese, then slicked with sage butter.

What to order : Polpetti Puccini, fennel-laced meatballs in a spunky tomato cream; cheese-stuffed eggplant rolls; insalate di tre cavoli, a slaw of Brussels sprouts, kale and Tuscan cabbage; pie, cake or tart of the month.

Tip : The vine-clad patio is one of the city’s loveliest, and it’s pet-friendly, too.

Pastry chef extraordinaire Vanarin Kuch is so full of Houston-specific, multicultural wizardry that every trip to his EaDo bakery cafe qualifies as an adventure. Maybe you’ll grab a ridiculously good Chinese sausage and egg taco with a Salty Cambodian espresso drink, the latter a tribute to Kuch’s family roots. Maybe the day’s pastry ideas will produce a “bowl” of Brazilian-inspired cheese bread filled with egg, bacon and a twinge of Thai chile jam.

The surroundings are crisply contemporary with amusing accents of midcentury modern. The front of the house is well run by Kuch's partner, Andreas Hager. And the flavor thrills just don’t stop, balancing salt and sweet and chile heat in unexpected ways. You might find a laminated pastry cradling asparagus, Brussels sprouts and smokey whipped gouda; or a downy London Fog roll filled with Meyer lemon and dusted with Earl Grey sugar. If we’re lucky, autumn brings back Kuch’s Asian-inflected versions of Caesar salad and a croissant-based fried green tomato BLT.

What to order : The menu shifts with the day and the chef’s brainstorms, but look for the memorable savory croissants and danish pastries; the breakfast tacos; espresso drinks brewed from Little Dreamer beans.

Tip : Watch their Instagram (@koffeteria) and website for special events featuring Cambodian dishes.

From the forge of the pandemic came this East End original: a serious taqueria-and-more inside a kombucha factory and hyper-local food market. Chef Victoria Elizondo and her team draw on Gulf Coast ingredients for such standouts as tacos cradling a spicy tinga of locally-grown Lion’s Mane and oyster mushrooms; or cochinita pibil with citrus achiote that would do honor to a fancy restaurant.

It’s all the little things that count here, like the way a quick pan sear transforms a breakfast of tamales with an egg by adding brisk, unexpected texture. Or the way the elemental guacamole hits all the right notes, as do black beans with pico, queso fresco and a twinge of epazote. The Kickin’ Kombucha folks have added fun natural wines, beer and excellent coffee service to their lineup of draft kombuchas. And special events like Torta Thursday or cumbia DJ nights keep things popping.

What to order : Mole almendrado tacos of roasted chicken in a sauce of dried chiles, cacao and almonds; shrimp tostaditas with morita chile aioli and grilled pineapple pico. Vegetarian? They’ve got you covered, too.

Tip : Grab black beans, elote, Salsa Machis and house-made tostaditas to take home.

Brilliance comes in many restaurant forms. Sometimes it strikes in a kiwi-colored suburban room where a singular, unstinting focus creates destination-quality food. That’s what draws banh mi connoisseurs to the Alief strip center where owners Michael Vu and Thu Pham put a personal spin on their distinctive sandwiches.

The basics sing, from the crackly French loaves with their fluffed interiors, to the rich and dusky house-made pate; from the butter garlic mayo to the tang of the pickled vegetables. But taste the crisped, bronzy debris of pork bits against the delicate sweetness of tender meatballs (xiu mai) and you know you’re in the presence of greatness.

That debris adds verve to the house combo banh mi, in which grilled pork meets a cold cut resembling slippery belly bacon. Even the cushiony sliced Vietnamese bologna banh mi is a revelation — as is the Cold Cuts banh mi featuring slithery slices of pork rimmed with cool belly fat. You can afford to go wild for $4-$5 per sandwich.

What to order : Banh mi xiu mai (pork meatball); banh mi dac biet (house combo); banh mi cha lua (bologna). And don’t miss one of the city’s best versions of iced Vietnamese coffee.

Sambrooks Management took over this near-Heights room in 2019 intent on seafood sophistication built on global fish, caviar dreams and raw-bar know-how, all drenched in proper gin martinis. Lately they’ve installed Matthew Young as executive chef. His promising new chapter is dressed up with scallop ceviche with Asian pear and cashew cream; crispy oysters and sweetbreads with soy mustard; lobster chawanmushi; and grilled swordfish with roasted vegetables, pickled chile and dill butter. Bonus: The place is named for the Gin Act of 1751; take your pick from more than 150 gin selections at the bar.

What to order : Gulf and East Coast oysters; salmon crudo with pink lady apples, cucumber and smoked fennel; octopus okonomiyaki on a cabbage and bacon hot cake; crispy-skin snapper with beurre blanc.

Tip : During weekday happy hour, oysters can be had for $1 to $3 a pop along with $5 martinis.

This laid-back Montrose bistro defies categorization. The vibe could be described as “living room cool.” Nina Simone plays on vinyl behind the bar. Montrosians hang on midcentury-style furniture or eat patty melts at a communal table. It’s hard not to smile sitting at the bar over a sprightly cocktail, perhaps the wild tropical twist on a G&T, the Certified Island Boi, made with pineapple- and rosemary-infused gin.

The short, freewheeling menu might yield radicchio salad with housemade guanciale, honey walnuts and smoked grapes. Brunch brings the fun of “phozole,” a mash-up of pozole and chicken pho. Fantastic selection of orange/pet-nat/natural wines. No reservations are taken; if you’re concerned on a weekend night, call ahead to see if there’s space.

What to order : Little Gem salad (any salad, really); duck torta; Certified Island Boi cocktail; brick chicken.

Tip : Go early if you want the Wednesday burger special; it sells out.

Wafting charcoal and cardamom, the grilled goat chops at this family-run Pakistani mainstay have won well-deserved cult status. They’re cut bone-in and they’re exceptionally gnawable. The rest of the bold, rustic menu rocks and rolls, too, from epic grilled BBQ beef, chicken and kebab platters with plenty of live-fire personality, to a rambunctious array of Pakistani karahi-style curries simmered in the round-bottomed, wok-like vessels that give the form its name.

Aga’s made an admirably professional pivot to takeout during the pandemic. Its 7-day-a-week format, many vegetarian options and efficient carryout make it a particularly useful restaurant — to say nothing of the reasonable prices.

What to order : Goat chops; spinach-and-cheese palak paneer; chicken makhni; bhindi (okra) masala; minced-chicken kabab Peshawari karahi in a tomato-laced sauce leaping with ginger, lemon and serrano chile.

A highlight of the new Post Market food hall hunkers toward the rear, where chef David Guerrero runs a small, sit-down ceviche bar inside his pan-South American takeaway operation. You can sit at a market-hall table with a carryout version of his lively lomo saltado, the Nikkei-style Peruvian beef stir-fry; or book a seat at the counter to sample his deft work with raw fish and shellfish.

It’s worth planning ahead for daily market-driven ceviches of mahi-mahi or black clams. Maybe there’ll be an offbeat octopus causa, the Peruvian mashed-potato terrine that comes in exciting forms here.

What to order : Cachapa, a sweet corn-and-cheese pancake; lomo saltado. From the ceviche bar: Causitas Acevichada with striped bass and rocoto chile; Tiradito Nikkei with hamachi and crispy striped bass; “Haunted Ceviche” with black clam and sea urchin.

Tip : Guerrero’s Mykuna kiosk at Railway Heights Market food hall is good, too.

The brilliant savory pastries at breakfast and lunch lift this high-caliber bakery into the restaurant realm. The breads and desserts that add so much to sister restaurant Doris Metropolitan display further dimension here, ranging through the Middle East and a repertoire of ancient grains.

The open focaccias alone are worth a journey: spangled with feta and caramelized onion or cherry tomatoes; anointed with za’atar and olive oil; layered with leek and Gruyère. A glittering pastry case holds gemlike confections and cakes, including specials like ricotta-and-fig tarts. Solid coffee and espresso drinks anchor the program, and a charming front patio adds seating to the snug modern space.

What to order : Sambusak pastry with eggplant, egg and tahini; shakshuka pastry with spiced tomato, egg and feta; burekas with spinach and cheese; cheesecake; granita shakes.

Tip : Bring home a loaf of smoked sourdough with sour cherry; or challah and chocolate babka on Fridays.

This pale, serene Montrose mansion exudes a rare sense of old-fashioned calm. But the menu bows to contemporary Barcelona, where chef Luis Roger once plied his trade, so anything from duck tongues to sea cucumber may pop up.

The touchstones run from silvery fresh anchovies cured in-house to Iberico suckling pig with a glassy crackle of skin. On a budget? You can eat well by grazing the tapas-like appetizers and always-interesting soups. It’s all set off by excellent Spanish wines (even by-the-glass choices will remind you how underrated they are) and peerless gin and tonics, whole miniature worlds unfolding in outsize goblets.

What to order : Boquerones (fresh pickled anchovies); Huevos Estrellados, sunny-side eggs with potatoes and Iberico ham; grilled duck with quince and Idiazabal cheese; suckling pig with cherry and cardamom.

Tip : Check out the art, which includes real-deal Miros and Picassos.

This open-air Heights restaurant looks a little like a sports bar, big screens and all, so the menu of Filipino crowd favorites fits. Crispy lumpia, chicken thighs lacquered in soy sauce and even house-made spam are just made to pair with a calamansi margarita or Filipino beer.

Business partners and native Houstonians Mark Pascual and Giovan Cuchapin take things a step further with creative riffs on their native cuisine. For sisig, a classic Filipino dish that often calls for pig’s face, there’s an option to swap in cubes of tuna that arrive on a sizzling platter. You’ll want to pair it with an order of the fragrant fried rice or pancit, a stir fry of noodles that’s basically a must-order for any Filipino meal.

What to order : Tuna sisig, pancit, halo halo.

Tip : Be on the lookout for the kamayan fest, a feast spread atop banana leaves filling an entire table that’s ideal for group dining.

Is it a bar? Is it a restaurant? Who cares! Casual-cool BLT consistently serves up a fun night out— whether you want some of the city’s best cocktails from some of the city’s best bartenders, or food from some of the city’s best chefs.

The teensy kitchen is now run by chef Michael O’Connor, formerly of Vic & Anthony’s, who has taken James Beard winner/co-owner Justin Yu’s original vision and run with it. Specials intrigue (pasta on Tuesday, steak on Wednesday), while tongue-in-cheek lunch, brunch and dinner menus feature salty and messy bar food like the swaggering Party Melt burger. The sandwiches here may be drippers, but a bowlful of stir-fried octopus, herbs and shishitos would fit in at any fine-dining restaurant.

What to order : Cacio e pepe on Tuesdays; chicken sandwich; charred quail with Sichuan chili noodles.

Tip : Happy hour goes until 5 p.m. and it’s a steal: all cocktails are half off.

Brothers Robin and Terry Wong and friend Quy Hoang grew up in Alief. They weave the suburb’s diverse culinary influences into a unique Asian-influenced take on Central Texas-style barbecue — a formula that has made the partners barbecue superstars and even led to an outpost in Las Vegas.

The classic (and superlative) Texas trinity of brisket, pork ribs and sausage is always available. But the daily specials are where the only-in-Houston fun happens: char-siu pork belly stuffed into a honey-glazed fried bao bun; gochujang glazed pork ribs; pho-rubbed beef belly spring rolls; smoked chicken pad Thai.

What to order : Brisket, hot links, turkey and pulled pork; brisket fried rice; jalapeño creamed corn; jalapeño coleslaw; macaroni and cheese; cucumber salad.

Tip : The menu boards above the counter feature the standard barbecue menu, but be sure and ask for the daily menu handout to find the creative dishes they are known for.

Aaron Bludorn ran New York kitchens for the celebrated French chef Daniel Boulud, so his Houston restaurant features exacting technique combined with American ideas and Gulf coast ingredients. His careful luxury menu meets a handsome dining room, first-rate service and a crack beverage program that have drawn well-heeled crowds from the early-pandemic launch date, no mean achievement.

The repertoire shifts with the seasons, which means flounder Meunière with pecans in the fall; stuffed squash blossoms in late spring; spaghetti with Sungold tomatoes and herbed breadcrumbs in summer. At the midwinter holidays, a Beef Wellington with sauce Perigourdine brings honor to the genre.

What to order : Short rib ravioli; roasted oysters with watercress and bacon; dry-aged beef burger with Redneck Cheddar; Tarte Flambée, a crackly-thin Alsatian-style flatbread with fromage blanc, bacon and Fresno chiles; Yuzu Sour cocktail.

Tip : The Wednesday prime rib special is state-of-the art.

When it comes to Korean barbecue, the higher the meat quality, the better the restaurant. That’s why Bori leads Houston’s pack of Korean spots, with steakhouse-style selections ranging from A5 Wagyu from Japan, to 41-day dry-aged prime ribeye and strip, to richly marbled cuts of beef belly, marinated boneless short rib, and ribeye cap.

Bori is a bona fide Korean cultural destination, too. Step across the threshold of the traditional hanok-style exterior into a sculpture garden, an art gallery, and a chic, modern dining room with updraft ventilation for a smokeless Korean barbecue experience. Service is top notch, and the complimentary banchan side dishes are excellent.

What to order : Japchae noodles; seafood pancake; octopus carpaccio; combo platters of Bori Beef Cuts, Short Ribs. Prime Beef Cuts, or Butcher’s Feast.

Tip : Book a private jungsik dinner — a seasonal multi-course tasting similar to Japanese kaiseki — for parties of two to six, Wednesdays and Thursdays only.

See the line stretching outside on weekends? It’s a testament to the enduring pleasures of this breakfast institution that consistently demonstrates why it is a soulful part of Houston’s social fabric. All walks of life descend on The Breakfast Klub daily, eager for the familiar comforts of biscuits and gravy, wings and waffle, eggs and grits, and lunchtime club sandwiches. It’s a true club, for sure: familiar, inviting, democratically encompassing. Skilled workers move the hordes efficiently through the gauntlet as eager diners order at the counter and are directed to tables. Once seated, take in the vibrant art and get comfy with a soundtrack that includes Stevie Wonder, The O’Jays, The Stylistics. Betcha By Golly, Wow!

What to order : Fried pork chops and eggs; wings and grits; seasoned catfish and grits; fried chicken wings and Belgian waffle; biscuits and gravy; breakfast sandwiches.

Tip : It’s open for breakfast and lunch only, until 2 p.m. daily.

At the age of 55, family-owned Brennan’s speaks to Houston’s Southern roots and deep connection with the cuisine of our Louisiana neighbors. The dining room and courtyard patio are as grand and gracious as ever. But while the menu features the sumptuosity of old-school Creole cooking, gently modern touches add wit and freshness.

Consider buttery escargots with “garlic bread pudding” that reads more like toast, transmogrified. Or a venerable Jill Jackson salad made with fashionable Little Gem. Griddled boudin cakes with pickled watermelon rind? Check. Vegetarian options pop up more these days, and while you can still finish with decadent Bananas Foster flamed table-side, vegans will find a vibrant berry cashew-cheesecake, too.

What to order : Mesquite-grilled redfish on a raft of pureed butter beans, alongside punchy little “tomato-stuffed tomatoes;” new side dish of Sardou creamed spinach with fried egg.

Tip : Half-bottles of cru Meursault from the ever-excellent wine list are a worthwhile splurge.

These chef-driven burgers don’t depend on massive size or sky-high luxury ingredients. Willet Feng conjures impact from Asian touches and careful technique — at an affordable price. Now that he and his wife, Diane, have moved their original food-court kiosk to a freestanding counter-service spot with a beer-and-wine license, his work is even more accessible.

Ordering is a “choose-your-own-adventure” affair. Condiments like kimchi relish and scallion aioli combine with Feng’s umami glaze to make the flavors of the fresh-ground chuck patties go boom. (Both the five-ounce griddled version and the two-ounce smashy ones have their charms.) Fish, falafel and breakfast sandwich options make the menu vegetarian-friendly, too.

What to order : Double 2-ounce patty cheeseburger with sambal mayo and kimchi relish; fries with scallion aioli.

Tip : Check Instagram, @burgerchanhtx, for current hours and watch for the talented chef Feng’s ambitious special dinner events.

This is what a cafeteria can be. A soaring, light-filled space. A suspended galaxy of a light installation. A stirring view of the Mies van der Rohe-designed Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. And casual food that rises to the occasion, conceived in consultation with celebrated New York chef Jonathan Benno.

Ease through the counter line for light, uplifting fare like made-to-order focaccia sandwiches, salads, soups and a green lasagna. Pizza, too — in the form of a variously topped focaccia slices, lined up in colorful array. Finish with impeccable pastries or unusual gelati and sorbet confections by Salvatore Martone. But the real dessert is a stroll through the adjoining Noguchi sculpture garden, or a spin through the modern art collection in the next-door Nancy and Rich Kinder wing.

What to order : Focaccia Margherita; chopped salad; Lasagna Primavera; bomboloni, a sugared doughnut filled with tart raspberry preserves.

Tip : Closed on Monday and Tuesday.

There may be no better place in Houston to celebrate our Gulf Coast seasons than Coltivare, the rustic Italianate spot in the Heights. The restaurant’s big kitchen garden supplies chef Ryan Pera and company with fresh produce and the herbs that animate the cooking, and it makes a gorgeous backdrop for patio dining or waiting for a table.

Consider some spring highlights: glossy snap peas with mint leaves, poised on mild ricotta. Or a reimagined artichoke dip with a creamy feta base, all salt and tang and crisp new vegetables. Salads are reliably lovely, and the simpler pizzas and pastas can sing.

What to order : The menu changes, but look for the arancini, the four-cheese white pizza, the vegetable carpaccio salads, and the black-pepper and Parmesan spaghetti. Don’t miss the wood-fired crostata with seasonal fruit.

Tip : GM and sommelier Leonora Varvoutis is a wine wizard. Take her advice.

Sultry and sophisticated, with a captivating patio, Concura flouts the usual Houston Italian-menu formula. How refreshing it is to find offbeat modern ideas like pappa pomodoro, a peasant bread-and-tomato dish reconfigured as an elegant terrine. Or cod-liver “foie gras,” potted in a tiny glass jar, that would be the envy of a high-toned sushi bar.

Both owner/interior designer Jessica Biondi and chef Angelo Cuppone hail from the Adriatic coast. So the menu leans coastal, while leaving room for specials like house-made passatelli in a foresty mushroom ragu, the ethereal pasta squiggles made from breadcrumbs, parmesan and egg. Not to mention a trompe l’oeil lemon dessert bursting with tart sweetness.

What to order : Vitello tonnato; roulade of rabbit and porchetta; eggplant parmigiana rolls with crusts made of dehydrated, pulverized eggplant skins.

Tip : Biondi’s husband, Alessio Riccio, can steer you through the interesting Italian wine list.

Will and Nichole Buckman started catering in friends’ backyards, then spent a few years working out of a food trailer, and eventually opened this brick-and-mortar cabin in Old Town Spring. Here they smoke some of the best and most consistent barbecue in greater Houston.

Brisket and pork ribs are the star of the show here, combining the best ingredients and cuts with Will’s uncompromising consistency, guaranteeing world-class smoked meats on every visit. Pulled pork, mostly an afterthought at many barbecue joints, is stellar here, combining moist and smoky pork shoulder with just enough vinegar sauce for balance. Don’t miss Nichole’s cobbler (various flavors) for dessert.

What to order : brisket; turkey; pulled pork; barbecue sandwiches; loaded baked potatoes; cobblers.

Tip : If you arrive early make sure you grab a numbered ticket to guarantee your place in line.

Some restaurants faltered in the pandemic. This ten-year-old Spanish spot found ways to flourish: upping their excellent wine dinners to twice a month, adding adventurous monthly tasting menus and eventually reopening for lunch.

Chef Kitty Bailey is backed up in the kitchen by Tenerife native Gabriel Reyes, and the French-inflected cooking is better than ever. Touchstones like the white bean and chorizo soup simmered with Iberico ham bones show astonishing depth. But new ideas shine, from pounded veal tenderloin with wild mushrooms and thyme to the most captivating Catalan tomato bread in the city. Smart Spanish and French wine choices add value, as do old-school service and a dark-walled, clubby vibe.

What to order : Shrimp with roasted garlic; duck confit with poached egg and smoked bacon; roasted and stuffed piquillos; pan de Cristal con tomate; seafood black rice.

Tip : Sit at the small bar to dine tapas-style from the front of the menu.

This Tanglewood-area Lebanese spot uses local ingredients and conscientiously raised chickens for its juicy rotisserie bird, which sets it apart in the Mediterranean fast-casual category. The place itself is cheering and exceptionally clean, with fresh flowers peppered about the dining area; one could easily pass a sunny afternoon here with a book and some lemonade.

Chef Rafael Nasr and his Peruvian mom, Claudia, are warmth incarnate. The chicken pita sandwich is too, with its cabbage crunch and soft hunks of roast potato. The fluffed texture of the chicken alone is a culinary marvel. You’ll want to take home a mezze platter to try all the dips, including an exceptional baba ghanoush graced with Lebanese olive oil.

What to order : Chicken pita; Akaushi beef kafta; mezze sampler; tabbouleh salad; pink lemonade tinged with rosewater.

Tip : A second location opens in West University this fall.

In a city that’s gaga for fiery crawfish boils, Trong Nguyen’s Viet-Cajun mudbugs liberally doused in garlicky butter and spices have set the pace. His fame extends beyond Houston’s Asiatown and he has a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination to prove it.

When in season Nguyen’s spicy crawfish are a Houston dining rite of passage. Outside the season, his intoxicating Viet-Cajun flavors bathe whole blue and Dungeness crabs, lobster and snow and king crab. Vietnamese rice, noodle and salad dishes flesh out the menu, along with raw and grilled oysters, fried catfish and shrimp baskets. Busy as it is, the family-run restaurant operates with remarkable efficiency and friendly hospitality.

What to order : Viet-Cajun crawfish or seafood; diced tenderloin tumbled with heaps of whole garlic cloves; crawfish fried rice; wok stir-fried noodles with seafood; salt and pepper fried calamari; fried seafood basket.

Tip : Plan wisely during crawfish season, when the restaurant is inundated. It's also beer and wine only.

At 10 years old, this festive Montrose restaurant has never felt more like a mini vacation to Mexico City — birthplace of co-owner and host Ana Beaven. That’s especially true during weekend brunches, when the lively multilingual crowd spills from the lofty dining room onto the patio and beyond, as patrons sipping cold beverages await seats.

The food’s fun too, from pristine guacamole hiding puffed chicharrones, to glorious green or red pozoles. For a peak Houston experience try Huevos Chelos, fried eggs in incendiary green salsa athwart three rolled potato tacos, crisp cigars that shade into softer textures as you eat. The perfect balance: a house margarita ever so slightly sweetened with piloncillo sugar.

What to order : Chilaquiles in shades of red, green or the unusual white; rajas con crema; encacahuatadas, potato enchiladas in a seriously spicy peanut salsa.

Tip : They’re opening an all-day breakfast and brunch spot, Cucharita, right down the block.

The Houston food scene is a better place with Mark Holley — and his Gulf Coastal-Creole cooking — in it. The chef’s elegant restaurant across from Hermann Park continues to send out bold dishes that are rooted regionally but stretch toward the Caribbean, Asia and beyond.

Consider his mussels, in a coconutty curry broth with well-calibrated heat levels, or the crispy Thai shrimp. Both winners. But it’s the Creole hits that speak with the boldest authority and practiced ease. The gumbo, graced with cornmeal-fried oysters, could be the best in the city. Service in the dining room feels personal and polished. Nice selection of Texas wine, too.

What to order : Gumbo; Parker House rolls with dips; Caribbean mussels; halibut with crab meat; coconut cake.

Tip : Looking for a special-occasion brunch? Try it here.

Degust is one of the most underrated and affordable tasting menu restaurants in Houston. For $140, you’re greeted at the door with bubbly, led into the 20-seat, chef’s counter-style dining room, then regaled with 12 seasonal courses that range from beautiful to playful to extraordinary.

With two seatings per night, the experience is elegant but not rigid. Expect an upbeat soundtrack and plenty of banter between co-chefs Javier “Javi” Becerra and Erico “Rico” Mackins as they introduce, plate and serve dishes such as crispy-tentacled Spanish octopus; Thai-inspired lobster coconut ceviche; mini flowerpots of bread topped with herbed butter from the on premise-garden; and pan-seared duck breast with Jackson Pollock-style splatter of pink Mexican mole.

What to order : The omnivore menu has a slight edge over the herbivore one, but you won’t go wrong with either. Do opt for the $65 wine pairing.

Tip : Plan for after-dinner drinks at adjacent Diversión Cocktails.

Though nominally a steakhouse, many of the Mediterranean, Middle Eastern- and Israeli-inspired dishes on this admirably focused menu meet or exceed the quality of the beef. It’s all presented in a handsome, contemporary dining room with polished and friendly service.

The steak menu features wet-aged, in-house dry-aged, as well as American and Japanese (A5 grade) wagyu options. Want to impress a client or guest? Get the 27-day dry-aged porterhouse for two. Or try the Moroccan fish, a flaky slab of Gulf snapper in an aromatic tomato sauce. Mediterranean starters set a spirited tone: the grilled octopus with tzatziki and the smoked tomato salad in particular. Refined and inventive dessert options include a cylinder-shaped date mousse perched on top of a disk of salted-hazelnut ice cream.

What to order : Butcher shop steaks and dry-aged selections; Israeli salad with tahini; Jerusalem salad with roasted cauliflower.

Tip : The complimentary bread service is outstanding.

Four years in, chef Drake Leonards’ ode to Louisiana’s Cajun Country bounty and New Orleans’ foodways still makes a persuasive case for itself. It’s a delicious journey marked by Gulf oysters (raw, fried, roasted), Gulf fish, Louisiana crab cakes, gumbo, and shrimp and grits – and colored by multicultural pops such as Italian (hand-pulled burrata), Asian (spicy Dan Dan shrimp), and Texican (fried quail with Tabasco honey). The Greenway Plaza dining room is a swell, modern space; excellent cocktails from the bar.

What to order : Cast iron cornbread; burrata with pepper jelly and biscuits; chicken liver mousse with fig jam; seared Gulf fish topped with brown butter, crab and almonds; crispy shrimp “etouffee” on handmade green noodles; smoked chicken and sausage gumbo; Creole cream cheese cheesecake.

Tip : Skillfully opened oysters (Gulf and East Coast) are a specialty, and Eunice is one of the few local spots serving Royal Red shrimp.

After starting in a small storefront in the Greenway Plaza office complex, the husband-and-wife team of Patrick Feges and Erin Smith opened an expansive second location in Spring Branch serving his Central Texas-style barbecue paired with her sides and desserts.

In addition to the excellent smoked meat offerings, the full menu is worth exploration: perhaps the fried chicken plate, whole hog platter or smoked chicken wings. Don’t miss creative sides that run to playful, Houston-friendly ideas like Moroccan-spiced carrots and spicy Korean-braised greens. There’s even a thoughtful salad menu, including a worthy charred Caesar version. The PB&J chocolate cake is a classic Houston barbecue dessert.

What to order : Barbecue (brisket, pork ribs, sausage, turkey, pulled pork, chicken and whole hog); smoked chicken wings; Moroccan-spiced carrots; spicy Korean braised greens.

Tip : Check out the wine list specifically chosen to pair with barbecue.

It’s a sight to behold: 40 crystal chandeliers set against floor-to-ceiling windows with verdant views of Buffalo Bayou Park. By day, the dining room feels like a secret garden; by night, the setting is as majestic as it is romantic.

A pricy snapshot of what it’s like to eat in Mexico right now, Flora feels like the spot restaurateur Grant Cooper was born to run. Sopecitos, made from house-nixtamalized masa, recall the streets of Mexico City. Ceviche negro and a tuna tostada take cues from the Baja. A Thursday-only giant short rib in resplendent red mole summons Oaxaca. Wines here follow Cooper’s low-markup model; there’s also a noteworthy selection of tequila and mezcal.

What to order : Charred octopus; mushrooms al ajillo; papas a la brava; yellowfin tuna tostada, pitch-perfect green enchiladas; churros; tres leches.

Tip : Arrive before sunset to experience the full day-to-night effect on the dining room.

The Gatlin family opened one of Houston’s first craft barbecue joints as a small takeout counter. Now they provide a unique blend of East and Central Texas-style barbecue, as well as inventive comfort food dishes, at their much grander storefront in Oak Forest.

Try any of the smoked meats with a side of the great dirty rice, a nod to the Cajun influence on the house East Texas style. Great smoked chicken wings come with sauces like Thai chili or Buffalo; and baby-back pork ribs are a specialty. Gatlin’s is of the few craft barbecue joints to serve breakfast; make sure to get the state-of-the-art biscuits baked by executive chef Michelle Wallace.

What to order : Barbecue (brisket, ribs, turkey, pulled pork, whole chicken and sausages); combo plates; stuffed baked potatoes; dirty rice; smoked corn; mac and cheese.

Tip : Pitmaster/co-owner Greg Gatlin recently opened Gatlin’s Fins & Feathers, specializing in Gulf Coast comfort foods, in Independence Heights.

What began as a food truck in 2011 is now a Houston institution. Amalia Pferd and Daniel Caballero’s inviting wood-framed establishment is so much more than a hot-dog joint. Yes, the dogs are exceedingly fine, with their house-made condiments and Pferd’s scintillating combinations of flavors and textures. She can make even the improbable (potato salad on a hot dog?!) taste predestined.

But attention to local sourcing and seasonal ingredients makes Good Dog into more of a modern sandwich shop with neighborhood bistro elements. Think craft beer, surprising salads and sandwiches like a Spanakopita Grilled Cheese with spinach, feta and Oaxaca cheese — a stealth Houston twist.

What to order : Ol’ Zapata Dog; Picnic Dog with chorizo chili, red potato salad and house-made mustard; Gulf fish and fresh-cut chips with house tartar sauce and malt-vinegar mignonette; onion rings; cajeta & cold-brew milkshake.

Tip : The relaxed front deck is made for good weather.

Back in 1986, the late Jim Goode’s seafood joint seemed like a cheeky, genre-blending haute bait camp. Four decades on, it’s hard to imagine Houston without it. That’s how embedded in our collective palate are the ultra-reliable fried platters; the distinctive mesquite-grilled fish and shellfish; the garlic-buttered seafood poboys; the campechana that triggered our Mexican seafood cocktail obsession.

Under Goode’s son Levi, the original spot’s decor has softened from theme-park bravura into something like the real vintage coastal thing. Perch at the bar in the railroad-car section for half-shell and wood-grilled appellation Gulf oysters. Or relax on the airy wooden enclosed porch for a special of immaculate mesquite-grilled amberjack in kicky Veracruzana style.

What to order : Mesquite-grilled shrimp with green salsa; fried seafood platter; grilled or fried po-boy; house margarita.

Tip : Check the up-front blackboard for the Gulf catch and oysters of the day.

Of our large-format Chinese seafood houses, this one consistently exceeds expectations. Hai Cang keeps its live seafood tanks well-stocked, so you can take your pick of live lobster, spot prawns, freshwater fish, and more. Their popularity means inventory stays on the move, ensuring freshness.

Dungeness crab served over lotus leaf rice is a showstopper, while mainstays like the house special lobster and whole steamed fish are meticulously prepared. The small-font, multi-page menu can be daunting, so ask the competent servers for their best recommendations.

What to order : Salt and pepper soft-shell crab; sautéed snow pea leaves with garlic; Dungeness crab steamed over lotus rice, lobster in house special sauce, whole steamed fish. For larger groups, order a pre-set menu for parties of 6, 8 and 10.

Tip : Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., the weekly lunch special is buy three get one free for dine-in guests.

Owner/pitmaster Ara Malekian is a classically trained chef who brings high technique to this small, agreeably rustic smokehouse in Richmond. He built it himself, and he serves some of the most delicious and unique Central Texas-style barbecue in the area.

Chef Ara sources and butchers his own cuts of beef from Double R Ranch, resulting in standout brisket and beef ribs. Sausages are made in-house and feature regular and chipotle versions. Beans cooked with meat drippings deliver big flavor. For dessert, the chocolate bread pudding and classic, not-too-sweet pecan pie are standouts. Keep an eye out for daily specials that include smoked duck and octopus.

What to order : Brisket, beef ribs, sausages; baked potatoes and sandwiches; butterscotch chocolate chip cookies.

Tip : If you arrive early on a Friday, don’t miss the tender, slow-smoked lamb chops. Bring along your best bottle of red wine, because they will deserve it.

Drawing from experiences at Uchi, the late Aqui, and a sushi omakase she opened in Thailand, chef Niki Vongthong’s 15-course chef’s tasting reflects her native Thai, Japanese and European sensibilities.

You’ll taste fish you’ve never heard of, such as himedai (lavender jobfish) or fuefuki dai (emperor bream). Her unique flavor combinations transform items like botan ebi (sweet shrimp), kissed with bincho tan coal and served over a fermented chili soy butter sauce. Eleven-day aged bluefin tuna progresses from lean to fatty, dressed to maximize flavor — akami basted with cherry-smoked wagyu fat and the tiniest dollop of fresh wasabi; chu toro with green onions; otoro with a simple garnish of pickled wasabi relish.

What to order : The standard menu is 15 courses of mostly nigiri sushi. Standout a la carte items, available as a supplement, include a Thai-inspired duck lab hand roll.

Tip : The menu is $175 for 15 courses. BYOB with a $20 per bottle corkage.

There’s a reason this Mahatma Gandhi District restaurant is a perennial favorite among Houston Indo/Pakistani restaurants. The accolades plastered on the walls confirm its popularity, and the menu name-drops Anthony Bourdain, whose endorsement of the chicken hara masala on his show “Parts Unknown” is worth all its fiery hype.

Fried chicken here holds its own with any of the top spots in town, and the gravy for the goat masala should not be wasted as you swoop up every last bit with a piece of garlic naan. For the more adventurous, the masala shepherd’s pie and the partha-dilla show off the kitchen’s ability to present Indian and Pakistani flavors in traditional and unexpected ways that has kept diners coming back for nearly two decades.

What to order : Chicken hara masala, Himalaya fried chicken, masala shepherd's pie

Tip : This is a BYOB establishment.

To step into Huong Sen, fashioned like a small teahouse in Southeast Asia, is to be transported to a world of calm zen. Beneath a charming faux palapa, vegetarian versions of traditional Vietnamese dishes – catfish in clay pot, for instance – are crafted with such skill that you could close your eyes and submit to the illusion of eating meat when there is none.

Portions are generous and everything is beautifully plated. From intricately patterned cast iron tea pots to textured-lacquer rice bowls, thoughtful touches at every turn contribute to a lovely yet modestly priced experience.

What to order : Bi cuon spring rolls; mango salad; salt and pepper fried tofu; clay pot veggie fish; caramelized eggplant in clay pot; sweet and sour soup; hu tieu mi chay noodle soup; ginger-lemongrass tea

Tip : Though most items are meant to be shared family-style, the noodle dishes (pho, hu tieu, bun), can be enjoyed as single bowl meals.

Ronnie Killen started his now-considerable restaurant empire with a small barbecue joint in his hometown of Pearland, then moved on to open his celebrated Killen’s Steakhouse there, and eventually came full circle with this contemporary barbecue destination where he serves one of the city’s best Texas Trinity of brisket, pork ribs and house-made sausage.

There are prizes to be found beyond traditional dishes, too. Pork belly burnt ends are sweet, savory and rich. There’s even a Tex-Mex-inspired menu featuring brisket nachos, tacos and quesadillas. The Nashville hot chicken sandwich is new. Give it a try, because Killen has always been particular about his frying.

What to order : Moist and lean brisket; beef ribs; turkey; pork belly burnt ends; brisket queso; bread pudding.

Tip : Standing in line under the big old oaks is a Houston ritual. But if you don’t want to queue, you can make table-service reservations for dinner on Friday and Saturday nights.

Though STQ began as a blend of Ronnie Killen’s steak and barbecue restaurants, it has evolved into a clever combination of comfort food infused with Gulf Coast techniques and ingredients.

That means brisket enchiladas; rigatoni with smoked brisket ragu; chicken-fried ribeye steak with cream gravy; and double-cut pork chop with jalapeno grits. Among the best live-fire options are smoky, briny wood-roasted oysters with black-garlic butter and Parmesan. The steaks have charisma, but some of the real magic lies in Gulf Coast seafood items like a superb blackened red snapper fillet topped with lump crab meat. Its unexpected platform? A bed of black-eyed peas and collard greens.

What to order : Pecan-smoked pork belly coated in sweet-and-spicy habanero barbecue sauce; blackened red snapper; wood-fired steaks; croissant bread pudding with bacon.

Tip : Don’t miss sides inspired by Killen’s Steakhouse, such as creamed corn or smoked gouda mac and cheese.

La Lucha shares half of chef Ford Fry’s Heights compound with Superica, his Tex-Mex spot. The pugilistic name seems less inscrutable when you consider that this deep dive into the pleasures of Gulf Seafood and fried chicken is inspired by Fry’s boyhood affection for the legendary San Jacinto Inn, near the site of a certain significant Texas battle.

Designed in stylish rec-room fashion, this is a come-as-you-are spot overseen by chef Bobby Matos. Expect seafood indulgences galore: Peel n’ eat shrimp, wood-roasted Gulf oysters, blackened snapper collars, redfish on the half shell and garlic crab fingers. The house signature is half or whole bird fried chicken served with biscuits, pickles and sauces; throw on a half-pound of fried shrimp for a true taste-of-Texas experience.

What to order : Half-shell oysters; fried chicken; the classic double-patty Pharmacy Burger; shrimp and pork dumplings with Szechuan sauce; deviled eggs; steamed mussels with pozole rojo

Tip : Want chips and queso? Servers are happy to fetch anything from Superica next door.

Sure, this high-end Spanish tapas and wood-fire operation is a restaurant. But it helps to think of MAD (and its exalted prices) as an immersive art experience — one that wraps you in neon spindles, moody reflective surfaces and surrealist design elements reminiscent of late-night Madrid.

The tapas, wines and cocktails can be splendid. The cooking can, too. Play it safe with perfect pan con tomate and slick slices of Iberico ham. Or walk on the wild side with teeny-tiny tacos of confited duck’s tongues. Hurray for recent initiatives like the appealing, affordable weekend brunches and chef Luis Roger’s nightly 10- or 12-course tasting menus with wine pairings.

What to order : Baby calamari with garlic aioli tucked into miniature squid-ink buns; a satiny Norwegian prawn to wrap in a shiso leaf with a lush tablet of sucking pig.

Tip : The canopied front patio feels like a Game of Thrones set piece.

Can classic French cooking strike a Houston attitude? Yes, demonstrate the three Ecuadorian brothers who run this civilized Heights bistro. Chef Manuel Pucha and his pastry chef brother, Victor, can turn out the airy cheese puffs known as gougères or an impeccable boneless fish napped in pitch-perfect beurre blanc. But it’s their deft South American touches that make the place so special.

Wagyu empanadas with a glazed, stretchy crust, plus a graceful gazpacho lifted by the warmth of espelette pepper, combine for a perfect lunch. The Houston-friendly selection of ceviches with assorted leches de tigre conjures the Ecuadorian coast. A cool, collected room with great ventilation adds to the appeal, as does gracious old-school service.

What to order : Onion soup; escargots; duck leg confit with endive salad and potatoes Sarlardaise; black-and-white souffle with Ecuadorian chocolate.

Tip : The more gently priced lunch is a welcome oasis of calm.

While the Mala mini-empire has grown — from Katy to a new outpost in the Heights — the Asiatown original set the pace for Sichuan cuisine when it opened in 2011. Cori Xiong and Heng Chen’s modest spot still produces reliable dishes electrified by the numbing tingle of Sichuan peppercorns (ma) and the burn of dried and fresh chiles (la).

Consider the superior version of Mala Beef Tendon, the meat shaved thinner than tissue paper and touched with just the right chile/oil balance. Classics such as Spicy and Crispy Chicken hit the mark, and newer ideas like Green Tea Bacon fried rice mix earthy tea aromas with rich bits of bacon.

What to order : Red-oil dumplings; dan dan noodles; pork with glass mushrooms and spicy garlic sauce; Pickled Pepper Fish Filet.

Tip : The dashingly designed new location in the Heights’ M-K-T complex, with cocktails and special menu items, is the buzz of the town.

Billed as an affectionate homage to Los Angeles’ Koreatown, everything about this Korean barbecue restaurant by Ken Bridge hits right, from the hip-hop playlist to the red neon signage, to the in-table grills with updraft ventilation.

If the vibe is on point, so is the food. Bridge uses the highest quality meats and proteins available, from USDA Prime on up. The Mapo marinated galbi, modeled after the galbi from the Korean city of Suwon, is one of the best in the city. Banchan side dishes, made from recipes borrowed from one of his aunts, brim with authenticity. Trained servers grill the meats, and Bridge himself or his mother might appear tableside to help out.

What to order : Kimchijeon (kimchi pancake); beef brisket; Kurobuta pork belly; marinated special chicken; king crab legs with gochujang butter; flavored soju

Tip : The restaurant uses the Roovy App as part of their no-contact check-out process; download it ahead of time.

Well-traveled Venezuelan owners, a serious pasta lab, a chef with Mexican/Filipino roots, and a sous of Jamaican heritage — that’s the equation at this cordial Heights bistro, where the food’s a delightful roller-coaster ride.

The flavors are huge. Vegetables take unexpected star turns. Seasonal pastas are thought-provoking. Houston’s melting pot shines through in everything from pasta dumplings with an African plantain filling to mussels in a hot-and-smoky tomato broth dotted with golden raisins, shallots and hunks of fried bread. The pandemic scuttled breakfast and lunch, alas; but the Sunday brunch and the dinner service are more fun than ever.

What to order : Carrots over carrots; 3-way Brussels sprouts; scarpinocc pasta twists filled with Taleggio; H-Town chorizo carbonara; goat-cheese tortelloni with lamb ragu, lemon, pistachios and mint; La Espanola G&T.

Tip : The Humberto Canale Patagonian Cabernet Franc, at $48 the bottle, is a must-order.

It’s been eight years since Mein made a splash in Chinatown. Having the temerity to do things a bit differently — with fashionable interiors and slightly higher-priced ticket items — caused a hullabaloo back then. But these days, Mein is the standard to which all new Chinatown restaurants should aspire.

Larger-than-life murals of 1940s Chinese actresses impart a Hong Kong diner glam, even as the kitchen effortlessly executes their tagline of “everyday food.” From classic wonton noodle soup to squid ink fried rice, house-made char siu to pan fried noodles and wok-fired items, chef Jack Tran and his team turn out dish after dish of modestly priced, comforting Chinese.

What to order : Char siu garlic wonton noodle; sansai egg tofu; hand-pulled chicken; garlic eggplant; pork olive leaf fried rice; crispy egg noodle; beef with broccoli hor fun.

Tip : After dinner, head a few doors down to sister concept Toukei Izakaya for highballs from their Japanese whiskey bar.

This Heights newcomer is a Vietnamese star in the making. Co-chefs Tam Nguyen and Rudy Vasquez are magicians with sauces, dips and chile-heat management. Their modern ideas put an engaging Houston spin on the classics.

Consider their Banh Xeo Tostada, the rice-flour pancake fried thin and crackly, then scored into triangles sprouting a savory shrimp salad with bits of pork belly. The stealth element? A light, tangy coconut crema. Remarkable salt-and-pepper squid crowned with a pea shoot salad get a miraculous green seafood sauce (muoi ot xanh) that balances tart, sweet, hot, salt and herbal. The place is young and understaffed but bursting with potential.

What to order : Claypot fish that’s pearly and deeply caramelized, with roasted Brussels sprouts to balance the sweetness; a rendition of shaking beef that may be the city’s finest.

Tip : There’s no sign on the corner building, but it’s at the northwest corner of W. 19th and Lawrence.

The sumptuous Galleria restaurant opened at the worst possible time, during the early months of the pandemic. But it managed to make it through, underscoring Houston’s appetite for its grand, ambitious level of haute Indian cuisine.

Musaafer, “traveler” in Hindi and Urdu, is serious about taking its customers on an Indian sojourn in lavish style: the décor is palatial, and chef Mayank Istwal’s dishes – think Chilean seabass in chile/coconut sauce – can be ravishing. And expensive; bring your maharaja pocketbook. Cocktails, such as the Zaffran 2.0 (gin, bergamot liqueur, saffron, cardamom and pistachio) are exquisite. Of note: Owners Mithu and Shammi Malik are planning a New York outpost.

What to order : Pani puri; paneer tikka; coriander and coconut prawns; lamb chops; beef vindaloo; butter chicken; Chilean sea bass; garlic naan; the marvelous cocktails by Himanshu Desai, known as “Himi” to his regulars.

Tip : It can be very loud in the dining rooms, but there’s a beautiful balcony patio.

One recipe takes center stage at the family-owned Nam Giao: banh beo chen. Almost every table will order these steamed rice flour cakes, which come in sand dollar-sized discs topped with flecks of ground shrimp, crispy pork rinds and fragrant scallion oil.

Other plates — from fiery bowls of bun bo Hue to a delightfully chewy fried mound of mochi stuffed with pork and shrimp (known as banh ram it) — showcase the cuisine of central Vietnam, unlike most other Asiatown restaurants along Bellaire. The no-frills space is dotted with a few TV screens, often playing soap operas, and there may be a Christmas wreath that was never taken down. But diners could care less when they’re ordering another round or two of the banh beo.

What to order : Banh beo chen, banh ram it, bun bo Hue, mi quang.

Tip : Closed on Thursdays.

Whether you dine at the delightfully shambling East End mothership or the flossier Uptown offshoot, Ninfa’s remains the Houston touchstone for epic fajita-and-margarita feeds. But under chef Alex Padilla, the menu has evolved to encompass dishes like wild-caught salmon mole or wood-baked panela cheese with green salsa. His monthly chef specials can wow, from melon gazpachos divorciados to Elote Loco, in which corn kernels meet huitlacoche aioli with a side of bone marrow.

Still, it’s the classics that bring Houstonians back decade after decade. (Next year, Ninfa’s will hit the half-century mark.) The frozen Ninfaritas. The charry platters of sliced skirt steak. The signature red and green salsas. The bacon-wrapped Diablo shrimp. Long may they reign.

What to order : Queso flameado; beef fajitas; mole enchiladas with wood-roasted chicken; cheese chile relleno; Road to Oaxaca or Mexirita cocktails; tres leches with a floof of singed marshmallow.

Since its 2014 debut, this 10-table mom-and-pop spot’s soup dumplings have served as Houston’s benchmark in the genre. Masterfully hand-crafted, the thin-skinned, soup-and-meat filled packages are consistently delicious, modestly priced — and close to what you’d be served in Shanghai.

Chef-owner Yongming Di’s repertoire ranges from crispy-bottom bao to sublime, melty braised pork belly in clay pot. His wife, Jane Zhou, who oversees the front of the house with a gentle smile, provides the kind of heart-warming service that fills the space with multi-generational families and foodies alike.

What to order : Scallion pancake; pork and/or shrimp and pork xiao long bao (soup dumpling); pork or shrimp crispy bottom bao; braised pork belly with egg; crispy skinned duck; scallion beef; sauteed water spinach with garlic; sweet red bean pie

Tip : Peak lunch/dinner times and weekends usually involve a wait, so try visiting between 2 and 5 p.m.

In a city thronged with steakhouses, Pappas. Bros. stands apart as a locally owned paragon of the form. From gracious service to drop-dead wine list, from in-house dry aging to rock-solid execution, they deliver.

The Galleria-area original is slung low like an antique railcar. But the loftier downtown version, with its welcoming chef’s counter, is our pick for a ritual feast of shrimp remoulade; a hulking dry-aged ribeye seared precisely rare-plus; and a baked potato fluffy and smartly dressed enough to give the genre back its good name. Stay alert for chef Catarino Torres’ specials, like a white lobster bisque heady with long-simmered shells and a surprise current of bourbon.

What to order : Zippy shrimp remoulade; Prime dry-aged ribeye; baked potato; roasted mushrooms; New York cheesecake with a boost of tart savor.

Tip : Well-versed somms can guide you to good values on the high-roller wine list.

The neon signs illuminating this Katy Malaysian restaurant are meant to conjure up the night markets of Southeast Asia. “No durian allowed,” reads one. Another defines “Phat” as “pretty hot and tempting.”

This tongue-in-cheek playfulness sets the tone for a meal that’s both fun and illuminating. Malaysian cuisine mashes up Singaporean, Chinese, Thai and Indian traditions. Flavors are bold and complex, melding the funk of belacan (fermented shrimp paste) with coconut, curry, fish sauce and spices. Malaysia-born, Hong Kong-raised Alex Au-Yeung handles these flavors with ease: Hainanese chicken displays a deft touch; sizzling tofu is voluptuously toothsome, while beef rendang is as addictive and comforting as butter chicken.

What to order : Roti canai; sautéed water spinach; char kway teo noodles; teh tarik pulled milk tea.

Tip : Parties of two or more can choose the “Feed Me” option of of six dishes, with a set price of $48 per person.

Pho Dien could win awards on broth alone. Simmered for a minimum of 12 hours, the silky mouthfeel of the delicately aromatic broth is so remarkable that each sip feels like a liquid caress.

Pho Dien doesn’t just get broth right. Everything about the bowl of pho is perfect: the noodles maintain a pleasing elasticity; the meats are moist and tender. Where other restaurants use eye of round for their tai (rare beef), Pho Dien’s standard tai is a marinated filet mignon. Their gau (fatty brisket) is fantastic, as is their gan (tendon), cooked until soft, translucent and deliciously gelatinous.

What to order : Pho dac biet (special combo); pho tai gan bo vien (rare beef, tendon and meatballs); pho tai gau (rare and fatty brisket); cafe sua da (Vietnamese iced coffee); sinh to bo (avocado milkshake)

Tip : Visit for breakfast on a weekend. There may be a wait, but the energy is electric and the people watching fantastic.

This is the restaurant that oysters built — and the scenic bayside seafood destination that the city needs. Owner Raz Halili’s family has oystered out of San Leon for two generations, and his airy restaurant with nonstop water views showcases Texas bivalves and a variety of fresh Gulf catch.

Chef Joe Cervantez and company turn out updated classics with precise modern touches, including a fried seafood platter with a lacy net of fried potatoes clasping a dewy hunk of snapper. The kitchen draws from the Louisiana, Asian and Mexican ideas that influence current Gulf Coast cooking, and there’s even a sly nod to Halili’s Balkan roots in an heirloom tomato salad with halloumi cheese.

What to order : Oysters on the half shell or grilled any of four ways; wood-grilled yellowfin with citrus and sesame; Tide to Fried platter.

Tip : Book one of their waterside bungalows and stay overnight, Relais et Chateau style.

Regional specialties, seafood options and margaritas are the draws at chef-owner Arnaldo Richards’ Upper Kirby Mexican restaurant. The mole menu is hard to beat, especially the classic Oaxacan-style chicken stewed in a black mole. A lime-based Pescador ceviche with snapper and shrimp hits a high mark, as does a tomato-based Vuelve a la Vida with all sorts of sea creatures.

Among the classics is an excellent chile en nogada: a pork-stuffed, roasted poblano pepper in a creamy walnut sauce drizzled with pomegranate seeds. Yes, Tex-Mex favorites such as tacos al carbon and enchiladas are offered, but it’s the regional gems – pork or chicken pibil, spiced lamb shank Hidalguense— that set Picos apart.

What to order : Mole dishes; ceviche and seafood cocteles (campechana, shrimp aguachile, and Vuelve a la Vida); chile en nogada

Tip : The Sunday all-you-can-eat brunch is an opportunity to work your way through Picos' signatures.

What could be finer than Mexican breakfast served right into the afternoon? At this persimmon-hued, family-owned cottage, from early morning until 3 p.m. you can partake of deliciously homey plates like huevos rancheros with crisp bacon, earthy beans and spongy slabs of white cheese; or the mighty Torta Don Carlos with sunny-side eggs embellished to a fare-thee-well.

Don’t stop with breakfast. Elemental chiles rellenos beg to be folded into floofy white corn tortillas made in-house. Mole enchiladas have a smoky tang and twinge of chile heat. And the service is as warm as the patterned mugs of cinnamon-tinged cafe de olla.

What to order : Huevos rancheros plate; picaditos, saucer-size masa cakes cupping mole, guajillo or verde sauces; enmoladas; chiles rellenos; aguas frescas by the quart jar.

Tip : On Fridays only, the sprawling cemita sandwich that’s a Pueblan specialty is worth a special trip.

Father and son team Luke Mandola Sr. and Dominic Mandola run the restaurant that helped introduce Houston to Louisiana-style crawfish boils, and Ragin’s consistency makes it a perennial favorite for Cajun fare. That means legit po'boys, fried seafood platters and authentic jambalaya. One of the city’s best muffuletta sandwiches, spilling with olive salad, too.

During crawfish season the restaurant moves mountains of mudbugs, and its casual tables are full of families. The atmosphere is festive, with zydeco music piped in. The char-grilled oysters, gurgling with garlic lemon butter and salty cheese, are a standout. For a quieter experience, try the more buttoned-up space next door.

What to order : Raw or char-grilled oysters; boudin balls; shrimp and crab gumbo; chicken and sausage jambalaya; crawfish etouffee; boiled crawfish; fried seafood platter; po’boys including roast beef debris with gravy; muffuletta sandwich.

Tip : Counter service is offered in the main dining room, full service (and a full bar) in the adjoining space.

For foodies who eagerly hop from one shiny new project to the next, ignoring Rainbow Lodge would be a mistake. Long considered one of the city’s most romantic restaurants, the rustic/cultured log cabin on White Oak Bayou possesses its own unflashy commitment to fine dining, and that’s what its fans love about it.

The solid game-friendly menu – it’s one of the few purveyors of elk, bison, venison and antelope – makes room for fresh ingredients from the restaurant’s own gardens. And chef Mark Schmidt is adept at weaving in Southwestern ideas like bison carpaccio with Mexican corn, queso fresco and chipotle aioli; or grilled elk chop with a green chile enchilada.

What to order : Grilled ciabatta with house-made whipped ricotta, pickled beets and tomatoes; smoked duck and andouille gumbo; rainbow trout stuffed with lump crab and pecan brown butter.

Tip : Seek beverage director Marc Borel’s help in navigating the worldly wine list.

Presented in a square bamboo steamer basket and topped with bright orange tobiko, the juicy, overfilled shu mai pork and shrimp dumplings at this Cantonese restaurant in Sugar Land are in a league of their own. No other dim sum restaurant in Houston comes close.

Husband-and-wife team Edmund and Teresa Mo have a reputation for quality. Their 80-plus item dim sum menu teems with great dishes, from pillowy char siu bao buns, to giant crispy shrimp balls, to delightful salt-and-pepper fried har gow, a riff on the standard steamed version. A picture menu facilitates ordering, and dim sum is served until 3 p.m.

What to order : Steamed char siu buns; ham sui gok glutinous rice dumplings; fried shrimp balls; pan fried shrimp and chives dumpling; steamed creamy custard buns; double layered milk pudding.

Tip : For a bit of drama, the crispy-skinned Fire Duck is wheeled to the table on a custom-built cart, set aflame, then carved tableside.

A Canadian chef with Ukrainian ancestry cooking modern Texas Gulf Coast fare tinged with Asian inspirations? Yup. Five years in, Ryan Lachaine is proving daily that Riel is more than fusion novelty. The Montrose restaurant with its unadorned clean lines is as refreshing as when it opened in 2017.

His concise menu offers some of his early signatures but feels of the moment. The oysters with coconut lime granita (or Oysters Moscow with vodka crème fraiche and caviar), caviar tater tot bonbons, and glistening pierogies bring a smile. And happy hour treats with his serious sendups of fast-food classics (butter burgers, Korean-flavored steak crunch wrap, and an homage to Filet-O-Fish) are pure joy.

What to order : Gem wedge salad; caviar service; corn gnocchi; hanger steak with potato and cheddar pierogi; kimchi carbonara with grilled head-on shrimp and egg yolk.

Tip : Solid wine list and craft cocktails; don’t miss happy hour bites and cocktail deals.

Russell and Misty Roegels opened a franchise of a Dallas-based barbecue chain in the 1990s before turning it into their own vision of a family ’cue joint.

Brisket and pork ribs are foundational here, with a creative selection of daily specials worth seeking out. Look for the fried turkey katsu-style sandwich as well as a Cuban-style pulled pork sandwich during the week. A robust in-house sausage program features an excellent brisket-filled boudin. Misty’s sides and desserts are classics, including a bright Texas caviar salad and a boozy banana pudding.

What to order : Brisket; ribs; sausage; Texified versions of the Cuban and Reuben sandwiches; Texas caviar; pinto beans; marinated tomatoes and cucumbers.

Tip : The Thursday-only house-made pastrami special is destination worthy. Earlier this year the Roegels opened a second location, with a full bar, off the Katy Freeway in Katy.

This casual trattoria calls their cooking “European comfort.” We think of it as Gulf Coast Italianate, a Houston farm-to-table style seen at spots like Coltivare and Squable. Rosie’s wood-fired pizzas alone would be a draw, with their flavorful crusts devised by chef Felipe Riccio and pastry chef Shawn Gawle. Don’t overlook the seasonal wild cards: a summer squash pie with Cantal and charred leeks was a late-summer smash.

Vegetable dishes and salads stand out, too. A cucumber and melon salad might draw life from a fish-sauce-tinged colatura dressing and unexpectedly mellow fermented Calabrian chiles. Rotating pastas may produce spaghetti in a cling of lemon with the shock of Anaheim chile relish; or emerald cappelletti with feta in a bracingly bitter rapini pesto. Sommelier June Rodil’s wine options and Gawle’s desserts are just as individualistic.

What to order : Cacio e pepe pizza; blistered bean salad; Little Gem lettuces with smoked trout roe; serious cocktails.

Do you think of wine-bar food as a dutiful afterthought? At this lively Second Ward spot, chef Andre Garza’s bold Asian-inflected ideas may blow your mind. They make the most of 56 rotating self-serve wines, the bottles held at cellar temps and stabilized by argon gas.

Graze the tap line for one-ounce tastes, graduating to 3- or 5-ounce pours when you find a favorite. Wine guy Garrett Lim has a keen palate for small producers and minimal intervention. Garza’s local, seasonal dishes make it all pop, from chorizo-spiked papas bravas swirled with manchego fondue to impeccably seared Gulf fish creations worthy of a fine-dining restaurant.

What to order : The umami fest of baby greens salad in bagna cauda dressing with teensy crisped fish; market fish of the day; cheese and condiment pairings.

Tip : Use a credit card to obtain your plastic wine card, which operates the tap wall.

You could blindly point to any dish at this budget-friendly South Indian vegetarian restaurant and your chance of eating well is almost certain.

The fact that there’s no meat on the menu is an afterthought when you bite into crispy shells, made from lentil flour, bursting with its comforting mix of potatoes and chickpeas with layers of tangy, sweet and spicy flavors. A thali order is like a DIY adventure where you can break apart the wafer-thin papadum to dip into a stew of hearty lentils, sour chutney or masala-spiked green beans. Don’t be surprised if you linger like the other patrons here snacking on dosas as they watch a game of cricket or sip on a cup of chai.

What to order : Dahi puri; madras thali; masala dosa; chai.

Tip : First timer? Ask for a menu with photos and be prepared for your order to arrive at seemingly random times on the counter.

This Heights restaurant is an idyllic neighborhood spot: small enough to feel cozy for a date night or a friend group, but not so trendy it’s impossible to get into. Whether Tuesday night or Sunday brunch, the Dutch pancake is a must. It looks like a deflated souffle but is the perfect cradle for whipped ricotta, preserved Meyer lemon and a just-spicy-enough black pepper honey.

Dishes involving bread rule here. A grilled slice topped with plump marinated mussels and buttery calico beans is meant to be shared, but nobody would blame you for finishing the entire thing. Same goes for the dessert bread, toasted brioche nestled in an oloroso sherry custard made with with maple and buttermilk. Oh, and vanilla ice cream on top.

What to order : Marinated mussels on grilled bread with calico beans; Dutch baby pancake; dessert bread.

Tip : The bar seats are especially popular with their front-row view of the kitchen.

Originally launched as a bean-to-bar chocolate enterprise, Tejas is the brainchild of brothers Greg and Scott Moore and partner Michelle Holland. They subsidized that business by selling barbecue on the side, eventually making smoked meats the main event at their cozy, renovated house in Old Town Tomball.

The chile-relleno-flavored sausage link is a Houston classic, as is the not-too-sweet carrot souffle side dish. Barbecue nachos are also a great option for the whole family, with house-made corn tortilla chips covered in poblano queso, guacamole, and a choice of brisket or pulled pork. Don’t leave without a box of the chocolate truffles located in the cooler next to the order counter.

What to order : Brisket, pork belly, pork ribs, pulled pork, turkey; smoked boudin and kielbasa; barbecue sandwiches; stuffed baked potatoes; carrot souffle

Tip : If there’s a line, check out their to-go market around the corner for quicker service.

This eccentric, homespun taco shop in Humble is open for breakfast and lunch only. The colorful dining room is emblazoned with murals of Lucha libre wrestlers, Elvis Presley and Dr. Spock.

Start with one of the fragrant, house-made flour tortillas and work your way down the steam table to choose one of the many outstanding fillings – perhaps chorizo, or potato and egg. Don’t forget a smear of lardy refried beans as a base. Orange juice is fresh squeezed, a nice perk. For lunch, consider a corn tortilla taco with chicharron, picadillo con papas or chicken mole. Don’t sleep on the house specialty, a taco containing fiery chile relleno in a pork-laden red sauce.

What to order : Potato and egg breakfast taco; refried beans; chile relleno taco.

Tip : There’s no posted menu, so what you see is what you can get; staff will happily describe all the options if you ask.

For nearly six decades, Tony’s has been checking off the fine-dining boxes many diners expect: impeccable service, white tablecloths, luxury ingredients, encyclopedic wine menus and artful plating. Houstonians harbor loyal nostalgia for this glitzy Italian establishment.

Yes, chef Kate McLean aces the classics (think seared foie gras with crispy brioche) while she’s constantly adding new items (any of the seasonal pastas are worth ordering). The memories of past dinners here — whether an anniversary, graduation or just a fancy night out — are a blessing and a curse. On one hand, Tony’s feels like it’s of a vanishing era. When you order a duck breast seared to a proper temperature and someone fills your wine glass as if on cue, however, it’s like coming home to a place where everything feels right.

What to order : House-made pastas; pommes souffles; dry aged duck.

Tip : The bar room feels a tad less formal, but the service is still on-point. Order an off menu souffle ahead of time.

Irresistible submarine combos star at this local mini chain. Tony’s drew national attention on Yelp at their original Montgomery shop. Now they’re sharing the wealth in suburban Katy and Tomball/Spring, too, where the sandwiches remain worth a drive.

Tony’s subs are one-and-a-half-pound monsters. They’re packed with good ingredients, from the Italian cold cuts to add-ons like marinated peppers and emphatic provolone. The cold variety travel well, improving as their contents marry. The hot subs demand speedy consumption, the better to appreciate their crackly crusts and engaging meltiness. One bite of the marinara-splashed Lucky, with its fragrant Italian fennel sausage, Genoa salami, pepperoni, and roasted peppers, and you’ll be hooked.

What to order : The Stallone with hottish capicola among its salumi cornucopia; The Lucky; the Roast Beef Melt; The Martin, featuring roast turkey and bacon.

Tip : Do not omit the buoyant balsamic sub oil on your sandwiches if the menu lists it as part of the package.

The Ortega family’s latest is a well-run casual spot that manages to be both useful and memorably grand. From bustling counter to convivial bar to a patio in a soaring arcade, Urbe bursts with life — especially during the long weekend brunch hours. A sophisticated international clientele gathers to partake of big flavors, carefully balanced agave-spirit cocktails and Ruben Ortega’s spectacular Mexican pastries, offered only on weekends.

At dinner, the semi-serve counter switches to full service. Beautifully plated “street food” runs from exquisite little roasted sweet potato tacos to wild “Diablitos,” cold chipotle shrimp riding raw oysters. (It works.) Dishes with sublimely smoky brisket add a Tejano touch – a confident move from Hugo Ortega, who’s famed for interior Mexican cuisine.

What to order : Queso flameado with brisket; next level huevos rancheros; crackly rolled chicken taquitos with edgy salsa albañil; Malinche cocktail.

Tip : At happy hour, don’t miss the landmark Urbe Trio. It’s puro Houston.

Chef Sunil Srivastava’s elegant modern Indian cooking finds an equally stylish home in this upper Kirby dining room. His repertoire runs from beautifully layered and seasoned flatbreads to lush little dumplings of lotus root or paneer; and on to meat and game dishes that conjure his background from the frontier province of Rajasthan.

Biryanis here are a big event, cooked dum-style beneath a pastry dome that releases clouds of fragrance when slashed open. There’s plenty to entice vegetarian diners, including baby eggplant in tomato/tamarind sauce with the twinge of wild onion seeds. Anapamu Srivastava’s warm hospitality and her mother’s striking modern wall art give the upscale restaurant a homey touch. Wines and cocktails live up to the food.

What to order : Chutney tasting; assorted breadbasket; chicken Peshawari tikka; jackfruit biryani; panchporan venison chops.

Tip : You can buy the wonderful house chutneys, sauces and pickles on your way out the door.

A hand lettered sign on the door gently suggests that diners in a hurry go elsewhere. That’s because chef Aaron Davis does slow food, guided by what’s fresh and Gulf Coast local. He channels his Creole background, the inspiration of two grandmothers (Viola and Agnes), his experience cooking on offshore rigs and his time stationed in Hawaii.

Upshot: A quirky menu spiced up with daily blackboard specials. Davis does subtle (fluffed sweet potatoes in the lightest syrup) right along with swagger (shrimp and grits in a hot-buttery NOLA barbecue style). The dining rooms feel right out of some vintage French Quarter backstreet, fitted out with bric-a-brac and set to a global jazz soundtrack.

What to order : Gumbo; collard greens; a superb slab of fried catfish the size of a skateboard; NOLA poutine with beef-cheek debris and gravy; understated carrot cake that tastes like your mama made it.

Tip : It’s BYOB.

What started as a po’boy pop-up during the pandemic became an engaging player with a menu of New Orleans-inspired food and cocktails. It’s all served up in a cleverly designed bar/dining room (formerly Natachee’s Supper ‘n Punch) and casual shaded patio.

Talk about a festive outpost for frozen cocktails (tequila sunrise, anyone?) and shaken or stirred classics such as a Hurricane or Hand Grenade. The food leans on Gulf fare touched by Crescent City realness including oysters (raw and char-grilled), gumbo, and po’boys built on real-deal Leidenheimer loaves. Winnie’s is having a blast and that fun is infectious.

What to order : Oysters; spring onion dip; pimento cheese queso (add crawfish tails); lemon pepper wings; gumbo; cheeseburger; Nashville hot mushroom po’boy with house chow chow; BLT katsu sando.

Tip : All cocktails are $5 from noon to 5 p.m.

James Beard Award finalists this year, co-chefs Christine Ha and Tony J. Nguyen trade in modern, Texas-inflected Vietnamese cuisine at their Sixth Ward spot. They transform cabbage-based Vietnamese roast duck salad with locally grown, peppery arugula, strips of fresh sweet jackfruit, fried shallots and house-smoked duck. Pho ap chao — fried rice noodles, typically topped with a medley of seafood, vegetables and beef — arrive instead with a giant smoked beef rib.

Viet-Cajun oysters get a spicy butter-garlic sauce called H-Town Bang; a braised pork and crispy rice dish is modeled after the Korean dolsot bibimbap. It’s an exciting show of progress — Vietnamese 2.0, if you will — for the next generation.

What to order : Not Our Ma’s egg rolls; smoked beef cheek dumplings; braised pork and crispy rice; smoked beef rib flat rice noodles; Nguyen-er Nguyen-er (fried) chicken dinner; pandan colada.

Tip : Take advantage of the happy hour specials (Monday-Thursday, Sunday).

Stashed in a prime corner spot at downtown’s Marriott Marquis, Hugo Ortega’s Xochi is the kind of hotel restaurant one dreams of finding at the end of a journey. Fabulous agave-based cocktails administered by crack bartenders. A wide-ranging Oaxacan menu with something for everyone, from vegetarian to omnivore, from palates adventurous to more conservative. That Xochi expresses something primal about Houston’s modern culinary identity makes it even more attractive — to visitors and natives alike.

The options handspring from huitlasquites, a lush corn soup with huitlacoche and crema, to cachetes de res, a braise of tender beef cheeks in chile pasilla mole. There’s even an appealing separate menu for vegetarians, making things even more user-friendly.

What to order : Four-mole tasting; wood-roasted oysters with mole amarillo; Masa Menos cocktail with Mezcal, ginger, corn purée, guava, lemon and corn salt.

Tip : Ask bartender extraordinaire Carlos “Chino” Serrano to make you his prize-winning, off-menu The Garden of the Pit cocktail.